Ray's Cabinet #1

The commitments
 
I first secured 2 cabinets on Ebay for $85.  One was an old "Vanguard" cabinet that some poor soul had converted to "Caveman Ninja".  Judging from the beating, this was a frustrating game at best.  The second was an old "Tron" game that had been stripped and retro-fitted with a game called "Two Tigers".  From the lack of abuse (or use) this machine took, I can only assume that even the "attract demo" to this game blows.  I had lost a previous auction for a "Rusty Asteroids Cabinet left out in the rain (non-working)" which went for $145, so I think I may have gotten a good deal.

Link to the FAQ on parts and labor: http//www.arcadecontrols.speedhost.com/arcade.htm

I used the KE-72 interface. HAPP arcade trackball, contact buttons, and the super joysticks.

Some Guys Garage
 
Ed and his truck accompanied Jacqueline and I to pick up the cabinets.  They were in a garage, which resembled a "Arcade graveyard".  There were cabinets and parts everywhere.  The guy fixed up old machines and resold them.  This we learned through his wife, as he did not show up.  "He does this all the time", she said. 

What the heck game is that?
 
A solid inventory assessment resulted in an absolutely raped Vanguard cabinet (Now dubbed cabinet "A").  IT had NOTHING inside but a blown marquee light ballast, a single car speaker, and a transformer bolted to the bottom of the cabinet.  I decided to start with this one because the control panel (made of metal) had a serviceable layout. 

The Two Tigers cabinet (dubbed Cabinet "B") is bigger, had a salvageable marquee panel, glass cover, bezel, and control panel featuring dueling spinners.  It is also a much bigger cabinet.  For this reason, I decided to learn my craft on cabinet A. 

The Journey Begins
 
After gutting (Saw off rusted out bolts) the cabinet, I started by attempting to mount a monitor inside the case.  I had a 15" monitor, so I decided to use it.  There is a 17" at my house also, but it is Neal or Ed's old Gateway monitor.  So, I used the smaller one.  Did I say smaller?!  It is 18" deep!!!  Well the cabinet is 17" deep.  So, It is sticking out the back.  By using only wood scraps that Tom Lemense taught me long ago never to throw out, I have video. 

I went to office max and bought a piece of black poster board (for a test) and a 1/4"  thick foam board (for giving presentations).  The wrapper for the foam board showed an "office-y" looking girl with a pointer.  'Nuff said.  After testing the little know fact that "Black is cool as a border" with the poster board, I cut the thick stuff (measure twice, cut once) and fit it around the monitor.

Looks 10, Dance 3
 
I decided to fix the marquee first, as this was the simplest way to make the empty cabinet look cool.  I went to Home Depot and bought the cheapest cabinet light I could find and took it home.  After reading many stories about mame projects on the web, I chose a cheap solution to the rest of the marquee.  Henderson glass cut 2 clear Plexiglas 7" x 22 3/4" panels.  Then, utilizing the superior technology of borrowing resources from work, I printed out a Mame banner on transparency film on the color laser printer.  I picked up a big piece of Plexiglas while I was at it and placed it over the poster board.  Well, I scratched it first.  Then and only then I placed over the "Bezel".   This is a real word, but according to Webster (that short kid from TV), it applies only to gems.  Nevertheless, in the arcade trade, the stuff the hide the sides of the monitors are bezels.

Cum on feel the noize
 
After looking at the rusty high school car speaker, I decided to go a different route.  I got the Altec amplified speakers I had and decided that they would work great.  I wanted to use them without the cases, but there were no screws.  A hammer and flat edge screwdriver quickly convinced them to open.  I drilled "noize holes" and mounted the speakers directly to the cabinet.

The tale of Sir Hole-cutter.
 
I needed to cut a 3" hole in the control panel for the track ball.  I chose the 'Happ authentic 3" Atari license track ball in blue'.  The hole needed to be cut in sheet metal.  So, I bought a 3" hole cutter that said, "cuts through metal".  Alas, I forgot the "arbor".  Back to Home Depot (x2).  At home Depot, I realize that the arbor size is the same of a door handle hole cutter, so I figure I can use the one I already have and leave.  Back to Home Depot (x3), since that is a false assumption.  So I buy the special made arbor for hold cutters of 2 ½" or more.  It fits like a glove.  Back home.  Little did I notice that the hold cutter now has a1/2" chuck.  I did not even know what a 'chuck' was, but now I know that men drills are ½" chuck, home drills for girlies are 3/8" chucks.  Back to Home Depot (x4) where the tool guy tells me the only solution is to buy a new drill ($99).  Screw that, the chuck is 7/16", so give me a 7/16" hex driver (cost $4).  Worked like a charm.  (During the last trip, I also bought those 'floor slider' thingies to help me slide the cabinet around.  I'll let you know if they work.)


Shrink ray

Mike gave me a tiny case to transfer to, since I had a 3' high tower.  It was even called the "high tower".  The 3' high tower did not fit inside the cabinet!  The tiny case, however, had a blown power supply.  So, I took a nostalgic tour back in time to when we had to build pcs for fun.  I have 3 nice deep cuts on my hands.

At this stage, I figure I am 2/3's done.  I have a working box, all the software, the marquee (very important), the Atari trackball is working, and all my button and joystick parts are in.  I just have to wire the all the button and joystick parts to the KE72 keyboard encoder and its back to Bosconian.  (I originally thought I was screwed as the trackball had the X axis reversed, but tech support explained to me that this was a simple encoder setting.)  I may have something useable by game night

 

The Big Finish

Wiring was a simple exercise in soldering.  Easy.  Everything is working and my high score on Robotron still sucks. 

 

A New Beginning

I started on the second cabinet, but here is my advice.  Get a new style cabinet where the monitor is more exposed and there are not cave like sides.  The newer cabinets allow for more control panel space and more players.